Travel Recap: Paris, France (with day trips to Versailles and Normandy!)
In 2017, I visited Europe for the very first time. Because it was my first time in Europe and I didn't know the next time I'd be back, I decided to make the most of it by staying for 2 weeks: 1 week in Portugal with two of my girlfriends, then meeting up with my then-boyfriend (now husband!) for a 2nd week in London, Rome, and Paris.
I joke that the 2nd week was such a stereotypical basic girl Eurotrip itinerary -- but I thought they'd be a good intro for my first time to Europe, and I'm so glad I visited all of them!
Seeing the Eiffel Tower was a magical experience, and I loved all of the food -- escargots, bread, champagne, cheese, chocolate. I also appreciated the opportunity to take day trips, especially to Normandy. And my boyfriend loved Paris so much that less than a year later, he proposed in front of the Eiffel Tower. :-)
tips and advice:
- Many guides recommend that you be careful with your belongings, as pickpockets are apparently common in Paris. Before my first visit, I read many stories about cell phones being snatched off of tables during meals and girls' purses being taken. I didn’t experience any problems, but it doesn’t hurt to be careful.
- Beware of "Paris syndrome"! Apparently it's a "sense of disappointment exhibited by some individuals when visiting or going on vacation to Paris" because they "feel that Paris wasn't what they expected." I personally feel like the Eiffel Tower light show (more info below) is probably a good cure. ;-)
- The Eiffel Tower light show: Every night from sundown to 1am, the Eiffel Tower sparkles for 5 minutes at the beginning of each hour, with the last show at 1am lasting for 10 minutes and sparkling in white rather than yellow like the others.
- Check restaurant and store operating hours in advance! Many are closed on Sundays and Mondays. Also check to see if you need reservations. And if you're struggling with the language barrier and your hotel offers a concierge, take advantage of that to help with finding recommended spots nearby and making reservations.
- I visited Paris in mid-August and early September, and while it was still warm (no jacket needed) in August, it was definitely already getting chilly in early September. At one point, I debated stopping in a store to buy a heavier sweater or jacket than the jean jacket I'd packed.
- I highly recommend learning at least a few basic phrases in French -- such as hello, how are you, thank you, excuse me, and I'm sorry -- and to be especially attentive about treating Parisians with respect (e.g., don't barge into a shop or restaurant and immediately start asking questions without first greeting the employees). I feel like I've read a lot of guides that say that French people aren't friendly, but I found that every local I spoke to was extremely warm, kind, and more than willing to put up with an American tourist. I will say that there's definitely no attitude of "the customer is always right" (which I for one appreciate, I think America has made a mistake propagating that mentality).
- Paris is divided into numbered arrondissements that are arranged in a spiral (see below -- kind of like a snail, haha!), and the Seine River divides Paris into the Left and Right Bank --the Left Bank is essentially south of the river, the Right Bank is essentially north of the river).
itinerary:
- Hotel: Hotel Saint-Germain in the 6th arrondissement and on the Left Bank.
- I like walking in general, and this hotel seemed very centrally located to get anywhere in Paris easily. And we always felt safe!
- Day 1
- Explored the neighborhood and walked to the Eiffel Tower, which we chose to climb rather than take the elevator ("lift"). I really enjoyed the climb and didn't find it too difficult, but I enjoy stair/stadium workouts, so others’ comfort may differ.
- Dinner at Semilla.
- Day 2
- Normandy. I knew that I did not want to leave France without having visited Normandy, so we booked a tour with Bayeux Shuttles. There were 5 total people in our tour, and our tour guide was extremely knowledgeable. My husband and I were actually supposed to do a full-day tour, but we missed our morning train transfer (we underestimated how large Gare Saint-Lazare is and how long we would need to make the transfer), so the company kindly switched us to an afternoon half-day tour last-minute. We visited Pointe du Hoc, Omaha Beach, and the Normandy American Cemetery. It was one of the most powerful experiences of my life, and I hope to go again someday. I'd check the weather before you go because much of it is obviously outdoors -- we got sprinkled on, which I didn't think took away from the experience (if anything, it added to it), but it might be tough if it's pouring/lightning.
- Dinner at Le Coupe Chou, in the 5th arrondissement. SO GOOD.
- Explored Paris at night, particularly the Bastille area (which I’ve heard compared to Bourbon Street in New Orleans).
- Day 3
- We visited the Louvre first thing in the morning -- we got there probably 30-45 minutes before it opened to try to be towards the beginning of the line, since we didn't have a ton of time. We felt like it was a rite of passage to see the Mona Lisa, so we ran straight to it, where a crowd had already formed. (FYI for your own trip planning: The Louvre is closed on Tuesdays!)
- Brunch at Angelina. We really enjoyed it, especially the famed hot chocolate (we wanted to go primarily because I love hot chocolate), but it is probably a little bit of a tourist trap at this point... my husband and I still love it, though!
- Versailles. It's obviously stunning, but in my opinion it was a little difficult to stomach just how unnecessarily extravagant it all felt, which I know is the point, but still. And I would recommend checking the weather before you schedule your day trip to Versailles, as there’s a lot to explore outside, and it was a little rainy on our visit so the ground got a bit muddy.
- Dinner at Le Christine, in the 6th arrondissement. Also so good, probably my favorite meal of the trip, but it’s a close call with Le Coupe Chou!
- Day 4
- We started our morning with another museum, the Musée d'Orsay, which was only a 10-minute walk from our hotel! I am not very knowledgeable about art, but Monet is definitely my favorite artist, so I wanted to see his paintings there. Sadly, I failed to do sufficient research and didn't realize that there were other museums with even more Monet -- including the world's largest collection.
- Throughout the day, we wandered through the Tuileries Garden and the Luxembourg Garden, walked along the Avenue des Champs-Élysées, and visited the Arc de Triomphe (which we climbed).
- Big Bus tour! I wanted to go to Montmartre (18th arrondissement) to visit the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and to visit Notre Dame (4th arrondissement), but after 2 weeks of travel, I also just wanted to sit and relax.
- Hotel: Hôtel Eiffel Trocadéro in the 16th arrondissement.
- This was located on the Trocadéro Square and was super convenient for our purposes -- and we had a view of the Eiffel Tower from our room.
- This was a short trip because my then-boyfriend surprised me for the weekend, so we left NYC on Friday evening, landed in Paris Saturday morning, and flew out from Paris Sunday afternoon.
- Day 1
- Walked around the Trocadéro and people-watched.
- Champagne and snacks overlooking the Eiffel Tower at Restaurant Le Coq
- Proposal on the Passerelle Debilly (bridge) in front of the Eiffel Tower.
- Took photos along the Seine River with the Eiffel Tower in the background.
- Celebratory dinner at Firmin le Barbier. If you’ve read my other guides, you know that I like tasting/chef’s menus, but it definitely requires trusting the chef — this chef’s menu included pigeon, and I was nervous, but it was pretty good!
- Day 2
- Brunch at Angelina (my husband now thinks of it as our Parisian tradition, haha)
- Montmartre to visit the Sacré-Cœur Basilica and see the Moulin Rouge :-)
photo diary:
where to eat and drink:
- Odette (pastry shop)
- Holybelly (cafe)
- Peninsula Paris (afternoon tea)
- Café Méricourt (breakfast, lunch)
- Café de l’Esplanade (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- Bistro Saint Dominique (breakfast, lunch, dinner)
- Angelina (breakfast, tea, dinner, drinks)
- Restaurant Le Coq (breakfast, lunch, dinner, drinks)
- Le Christine (lunch, dinner)
- Les Papilles (lunch, dinner)
- Firmin le Barbier (lunch, dinner)
- Derrière (lunch, dinner)
- East Mamma (lunch, dinner)
- Racines des Prés (lunch, dinner)
- Le Coupe Chou (dinner)
- Le Refuge des Fondus (fondue and baby bottles for drinks!)
- Le Bar Botaniste in the Shangri-La Hotel (drinks)
- Bar Hemingway in the Ritz (drinks)
- Little Red Door (cocktail bar)
- Prescription (cocktail)
what to do:
- The Eiffel Tower! Whether you take the stairs or the elevator, it's an experience -- and whatever you choose, you will need to purchase tickets. I was surprised to learn that there were shops and dining options on the Eiffel Tower!
- Holiday Inn rooftop for sunset views
- Museums — Paris has so many. There's the Louvre (obviously) and Musée d'Orsay, but also Musée Marmottan-Monet and Musée de l’Orangerie, and so many more.
- Big Bus tour. We have now done them in Rome, Paris, and Sydney, and I've enjoyed it every time. A great way to see parts of the city you may not have otherwise, see the highlights, hit several locations quickly, learn some history and trivia, and rest your feet!
- Fat Bike tour. This tour comes highly recommended by people we know, and there are a bunch of different kinds of tours.
- Day trips to Versailles or Normandy. If I had to pick one, I'd pick Normandy -- while Versailles was stunning, I absolutely got more out of seeing Normandy and learning about the history there. I really can’t recommend visiting Normandy enough. It felt like an honor to visit, and I appreciated the opportunity to pay my respects at the Cemetery, too.
- Arc de Triomphe, including climbing to the top. Although I liked climbing the Eiffel Tower better because it's more strenuous, I’d say I liked this view better because the view of the city with the Eiffel Tower is so iconic. (You will need to purchase tickets to visit the top!)
- Eiffel Tower night shows! Every night, from sundown to 1am, the Eiffel Tower sparkles for 5 minutes at the beginning of each hour, with the last show at 1am lasting for 10 minutes and sparkling in white rather than yellow like the other shows. Some places to maximize your view and therefore your experience: The Pont Neuf Bridge; the Galeries Lafayette department store rooftop; and/or the Pont des Arts Bridge.
- Palais Royal
- Place Vendôme for shopping
links I used or recommend:
- The Blonde Abroad - Ultimate Paris Travel Guide
- Katie's Bliss - First Time Visiting Paris Itinerary
- Our Escape Claus - Visiting Versailles from Paris (I used older blogs but wanted to provide more recent ones given travel may have changed)
- Sher She Goes - How to plan the Perfect Paris to Normandy Trip (+ Itinerary) (I used older blogs but wanted to provide more recent ones given travel may have changed)
- World in Paris - Plan the Perfect Day Trip to Versailles from Paris [2021] – A Local’s Guide (I used older blogs but wanted to provide more recent ones given travel may have changed)
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