Travel Diary: Rome, Italy

I visited Rome in September 2017 as part of a two-week trip that included Portugal, England, and France, and Rome was immediately my favorite city of the trip. I loved being able to just wander the city and see history everywhere. It was unlike any other place I've been, mostly in part because it felt ancient in a way no city I'd ever visited did.

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tips and advice:

  • After ending my Portugal vacation with two friends, I flew to London to meet up with my then-boyfriend, and after a few days we flew to Rome, then Paris. We booked this itinerary based on prices and flight times, but I would have preferred to end or begin with Rome and visit London and Paris together, so that we maximized our time on the ground and spent less time in the air (and maybe travel by train between London and Paris). It sounds obvious, but if you're planning a multi-country trip, it's definitely worth looking at a map in addition to prices and flight time.
  • I visited in early September (traveling over Labor Day meant taking one fewer vacation day from work) and the weather was perfect for end of summer travel: I wore dresses and shorts most of the time (except when visiting the Vatican) and was comfortable. I read that the summer months of July and August can be uncomfortably hot, so I was glad it had cooled down a bit by the time I visited.
  • Between outdoor sites and walking around the city, you'll likely be outside a lot, so wear sunscreen, bring sunglasses, and consider wearing a hat as well! And wear comfortable shoes, too.
  • Beware of dress codes! Always check to see if there's a dress code if you're visiting a historical or religious site. I was aware of the Vatican's dress code and dressed appropriately but unfortunately didn't realize the Pantheon had one as well, so I wasn't allowed in wearing a cut-out romper that didn't cover my shoulders.
  • As with Paris, I'd read a lot of warnings about pickpockets, so choose your bag carefully (like a cross-body bag) and be aware of your belongings and surroundings. We also had people try to scam us three different times by selling us bogus tour tickets, so buy your tickets in advance from verified sellers and ask lots of questions if you're unsure! And while buying tickets, check to see if there are skip-the-line tickets available.
  • Also like in Paris, learn a few key phrases so that you can show respect: Hello, how are you, I'm sorry, and thank you, etc.
  • Italian law requires people to carry their nationally-issued ID with them at all times, so you're expected to have your ID on you in case you're asked to see it. I didn't realize this at the time, but fortunately we didn't run into any issues.
  • Carry coins for the bathroom, in case you have to buy something to use it or the bathroom itself requires payment... and read this incredibly helpful and detailed post about public bathrooms in Rome and where to find them!
  • Before my trip, I read online that people are sometimes surprised by bills for their meals -- and Americans are often unsure about tipping. Always be sure to check the menu and prices, and here's what I've gathered from my googling: 1) Coperto is a flat per-person fee/fixed cover charge and is a leftover from times when people would bring their own food, so they'd be charged for the space at the table and the tableware. Coperto is illegal in the Lazio region (which includes Rome), so if you see this on the menu, I would pick somewhere else to eat. 2) Tipping is not common or expected, but if you see servizio on the menu or bill, that is essentially a tip. 3) Sometimes bread has an extra fee (pane). 4) Coffee prices can vary depending on if you choose to sit or stand; if you sit, you might be charged for the space. Banco is the bar/standing price, tavolo is the sitting price. Again: Check the menu! 5) If the price seems too good to be true, ask for more details! Sometimes a menu may price an item by weight versus by the total cost for the dish. And lastly, 6) In general, try to eat and drink away from tourist sites, and avoid places that have staff at the door or menus outside in English -- all of which are likely to be overpriced.
  • I'm not the best person to speak about food like carbonara or cacio e pepe (I don't know anything about cooking and don't have a sense for differentiating between different flavors), but I do feel qualified to speak about gelato! To make sure you're getting the good stuff, pick a gelato spot that 1) doesn't offer unnatural colors that don't make sense for the flavor; 2) uses metal tins (not plastic tubs) and doesn't have sky-high towers of gelato, because real gelato melts quickly; and 3) has the ingredient list available.
  • Keep an eye out for the cats of Rome! An estimated 300,000 feral cats roam the city. 

itinerary:

  • Hotel: Roma Palazzo Cinquecento. 
    • We stayed here on a friend's recommendation and thoroughly enjoyed it. Not only was the hotel very pretty with spacious rooms and a beautiful rooftop, it was also a great location. It was right near the Termini station and was within walking distance to many of the sites we visited. (Although admittedly we do enjoy walking as much as possible, perhaps longer distances than others would.)
  • Day 1
    • After dropping our things off at the hotel, we immediately set out to walk the city.
    • One of the first things we did was eat pizza, which we ordered at Pinsere. I remember thinking this was some of the best pizza I've ever had, and my husband ordered pumpkin pizza on a whim just to try it out and thought even that was delicious! 
    • We visited the Trevi Fountain, which was both smaller and more crowded than I expected. I've since read that the best time of day to avoid crowds is the early morning or in the evening when it's lit up. If I'm being honest, I'd also try to figure out when the sun is in the best position, as our faces and the fountain were half in shadow when we went.
    • Walked around Piazza Navona.
    • We bought some of the last tickets of the day to the Colosseum. Be sure to check the hours, as we expected it to be open longer and got very lucky getting in just in time!
    • Dinner at Osteria Quarantaquattro.
  • Day 2
    • We spent the morning at the Vatican, and we chose to buy tickets to climb to the top of St. Peter's dome. I believe in total we were there 4-5 hours. Again, check the dress code to ensure you dress appropriately; this was the only time I wore pants in Rome. Here is more information about climbing the dome of St. Peter's Basilica.
    • We had planned to do another tour of the Colosseum, since we felt a bit rushed the day before, but it closed before we could! So we visited the Piazza del Campidolgio and went behind the building for a view of the Forum, Palatine Hill, and the Colosseum at sunset.
    • Diner at InRoma.
  • Day 3
    • Big Bus tour! I have raved about them in several travel diaries, including Paris and Sydney. I LOVE THEM. They're an easy way to see the highlights, rest your feet, and learn some interesting trivia.
    • We hopped on and off the Big Bus to wander the city, including visiting the Pantheon. (Dress appropriately! I didn't have anything to cover my shoulders, unfortunately.)
    • We stopped to have drinks and snacks, but unfortunately I can't remember where, only that it was at the top of a hill overlooking the city with blue and white umbrellas, haha!
    • Dinner at Sofia.

photo diary:

Apologies for the quality of photo -- they were taken on an iPhone in 2017! And while I prefer not to post photos that have other people in them, it's a bit unavoidable in popular areas, so I tried to pick photos where at least faces aren't visible.

Trevi Fountain!




A view of the crowd, to give you an idea of what you'll have to navigate through!


La Colonna della Immacolata (the Column of the Immaculate Conception)


In front of the Spanish Steps.

Sunglasses: Illesteva Leonard in tortoise/pink (affiliate link) | Dress: Lulu's (affiliate link) | Watch: Kate Spade (affiliate link)

Corte Suprema di Cassazione (the Supreme Court of Cassation)

Fontana del Nettuno (the Fountain of Neptune)


Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (the Fountain of the Four Rivers)


Sant'Agnese in Piazza Navona (Church of Saint Agnes)

Fontana del Moro (Moor Fountain)

Sant'Andrea della Valle (Church of St. Andrew of the Valley)

Palazzo Venezia



Inside the Colosseum

Sunglasses: Illesteva Leonard in tortoise/pink (affiliate link) | Dress: Lulu's (affiliate link) | Watch: Kate Spade (affiliate link)



Earrings: BaubleBar | Dress: Lulu's (affiliate link)

The only other time I've gotten to wear this dress is in Mexico!

Touring the Vatican Museum




Trying to make the most of taking in the artwork.

I just loved this pose and expression. Because, same.



Dressed appropriately with shoulders and knees covered up.
Sunglasses: Illesteva Leonard in tortoise/pink (affiliate link) | Necklace: Kendra Scott (affiliate link) | Shirt: Ann Taylor | Jeans: LOFT | Purse: Tory Burch | Phone case: Kate Spade



St. Peter's Square. The line for St. Peter's Basilica was looong but moved fairly quickly, all things considered!

Panorama -- I'm not sure the effect was quite what I wanted.

Feeling massively blessed ;-)


Inside St. Peter's Basilica.










Wandering around as we tried to climb St. Peter's dome

Convinced I was leading us nowhere.

View from climbing the dome!

Ceiling of the dome.

View from the top of the dome. Been there, dome that ;-)


We're really good at photography.

Panorama from the dome.

Sunglasses: Ray-Ban Mirrored Clubmaster in green mirror (affiliate link) | Shirt: Express | Jeans: Blank NYC

View overlooking the Forum, Palatine Hill, and Colosseum




I know, these are all almost identical, just zoomed in/out at different levels and slightly different angles.

I was apparently really into panoramas when we visited Rome.





View from the Big Bus! Passing the Circus Maximus.

Outside the Pantheon. Wish I'd brought a cardigan!

Sunglasses: Illesteva Leonard in tortoise/pink (affiliate link) | Romper: Good Night Macaroon

Necklace: My sorority one, haha! | Dress: Zara | Shoes: Nine West

When in Rome...

where to eat and drink:

Note: Italian restaurants often have names beginning with "osteria," "trattoria," and "ristorante." A general rule of thumb is that an "osteria" offers a more bar-like, informal experience; a "trattoria" means casual; and a "ristorante" means more upscale and elegant. You may also see "pasticceria" (a bakery or pastry shop) and "enoteca" (wine bar). However, keep in mind that these terms aren't as clearly defined as they used to be, so always check the menu and/or website.

what to do:

  • All the historical sites: Colosseum, Forum, etc. FYI: The street of Via Nicola Salvi is considered a great place to photograph the Colosseum from.
  • Vatican City and all that includes-- tour St. Peter's Basilica, including climbing St. Peter's Dome if possible; visit the Sistine Chapel; tour the Vatican Museum, etc.
  • Tourist sites like the Trevi Fountain and the Spanish Steps. They're touristy, but my husband always says places become touristy for a reason. Worth going even if it's just to say you went!
  • Villa Borghese Gardens
  • Baths of Caracall or Baths of Diocletian
  • All kinds of tours - food, walking, biking. Fat Tire Tours offers several kinds of tours in Rome!
  • Big Bus tour
  • Rome's Jewish ghetto
  • Churches and basilicas (St Peter's, Pantheon, Santa Maria Maggiore, Santa Prassede)
  • Climb to the top of the Vittoriano in Piazzo Venezia
  • Aventine keyhole, at the top of the Aventine Hill
  • Trastavere neighborhood
  • I wish we'd had time to visit the Oval Fountain in Tivoli (approximately 20 miles from Rome) and the courage to rent Vespas!
  • At the Piazzo del Campidoglio, walk around the Palazzo Senatorio at sunset to see the Roman Forum, Palatine Hill, and Colosseum.

links I used or recommend:

While I may not have lived out my Lizzie McGuire dreams of being mistaken for a famous person and riding around Rome on a Vespa, Rome was everything I could have dreamed of. Hopefully someday I'll have a few weeks to just roam around Italy, including a stop in Rome.

love from


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